Unmasking the Cruelty of Fur and Leather in Fashion

Written by Júlia Almeida

There are so many misconceptions about animal products in fashion. Fur and leather are often seen as luxurious and sustainable—but is that really true? From biodegradability to industry byproducts, we’re breaking down the biggest myths and uncovering the facts.

For some time now, I’ve felt the need to write an article about the fashion world. Trends come and go, but misinformation persists. Recently, I’ve seen fashion pages praising fur in the winter just as they praise leather in other seasons.

In a recent post on a fashion page, I saw comments about fur from people who either ignore its origin—obviously coming from an animal—or try to justify its use by claiming it is more eco-friendly and biodegradable.

But where did the idea that fur is sustainable come from?

Ecologically speaking, the concept of sustainable fashion refers to clothing and accessories made responsibly, with minimal environmental impact. When we talk about ecology, we’re talking about the environment and the beings that inhabit it. It seems that those who spread the idea that fur is sustainable conveniently forget that animals are also part of nature.

Another common argument is that fur is biodegradable and therefore eco-friendly. But that’s where the fallacy lies. Something can be biodegradable and still not sustainable. The production of real fur involves the killing of animals, the environmental impacts of livestock farming, and highly polluting tanning processes that use chemicals extremely harmful to the environment.

Others argue that fur is more eco-friendly than fake fur because the latter uses fossil fuels. But this ignores the fact that the use of real fur also relies on fossil fuels in multiple stages of the production process—from raising and feeding the animals to the tanning process, which is a chemical procedure to prevent the skin from decomposing, utilizing petroleum-derived products.

Yes, synthetic fur contains petroleum derivatives (usually polyester or acrylic), but some brands are developing more sustainable alternatives made from recycled or biodegradable materials. The French company, Ecopel, has gone a step further by creating a biodegradable faux fur coat, they specialize in high-quality faux fur and have been a supplier for many fashion brands looking for ethical alternatives.

In summary, real fur has a significant environmental impact, from the mass killing of animals to the use of fossil fuels in production, and the pollution generated during processing. That’s why many brands and consumers are migrating to more sustainable alternatives.

The Great Irony of the Durability

Many defend real fur by saying that it “lasts longer” and is therefore more sustainable. But the irony is that, without a heavy chemical process, fur would naturally decompose.

Tanning natural leather also requires high doses of chemicals derived from fossil fuels, precisely to prevent decomposition, which already calls into question its supposed “naturalness.”

Meanwhile, some of my designer friends have kept fake fur intact for over twenty years. In other words, even though it’s made from petroleum, synthetic fur can have equivalent or even superior longevity to real fur.

In the end, real fur isn’t as “naturally durable” as it is made out to be—it needs to be artificially preserved, and that comes at a huge cost to the environment and animal lives. True sustainability requires an analysis that goes beyond the durability myth.

And Leather? The Darling of Luxury Brands

Leather is one of the most contradictory materials in the debate about sustainability in fashion. Luxury brands love to sell it as a durable and timeless product, but the reality of its environmental impact is far more complex.

The Problem with “Natural” Leather

Heavy chemical tanning: Most leathers go through a tanning process with chromium and other toxic chemicals, which are highly polluting for rivers and soils.
Use of fossil fuels: Like real fur, leather requires an intensive industrial process to prevent natural decomposition, which involves petroleum derivatives.
Connection to livestock farming: Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry, it’s directly linked to deforestation and greenhouse gas emissions.
Violence against animals.

And Synthetic Leather?

Mostly made from polyurethane (PU) or PVC, materials derived from petroleum.
It has a high environmental impact, but brands are already developing more sustainable versions, such as vegan leather made from mushrooms, cactus, and pineapples.
It can have longevity comparable to animal leather, depending on quality and care.
Cruelty-free.

The Great Hypocrisy of Luxury Fashion

Some luxury brands have abandoned real fur, citing ethics and sustainability, but continue producing leather. This exposes a hypocrisy: if the concern were truly about environmental impact and animal rights, leather would also be in the crosshairs. But since it continues to be a symbol of status and desire, it’s conveniently spared from being canceled.

In the end, leather is not as sustainable as brands like to claim—and certainly not eco-friendly.

More Than Animal Exploitation: A Human Cost

The sustainability issue with animal farming for fashion goes beyond the ethical treatment of animals. It also involves significant human exploitation.

Animal farming for leather and fur is often concentrated in low-income areas, where workers are subjected to poor labor conditions and low wages. These communities bear the brunt of environmental degradation, with polluted water sources, poor air quality, and exposure to toxic chemicals used in the tanning and fur processing industries. The profits from these industries rarely benefit the local populations, further perpetuating the cycle of poverty and exploitation.

And in essence, the search for “sustainability” in fashion, when it comes to real fur and leather, is an illusion, as it involves the exploitation of both animals and humans, along with significant environmental damage. More ethical and eco-friendly alternatives lie in synthetic or plant-based materials, representing a more responsible future for the fashion industry.

With all that said, I would encourage the public to keep an eye on vegan leather brands such as Ananas Anam, who are using Piñatex made from pineapple leaves for a sustainable alternative, and Malai, which makes leather-like materials from agricultural waste like coconut husks. MycoWorks and Bolt Threads are pioneering the use of mushroom leather, offering high-quality, eco-friendly products. Donna Karan and Stella McCartney are also incorporating AppleSkin, a leather made from apples, into their collections. These brands are leading the charge in providing stylish, cruelty-free, and sustainable options to the fashion industry.

Meet the author:

Julia Almeida is a Brazilian vegan writer and international model based in California. With over a decade of veganism, she has traveled widely, often during times when finding plant-based options was far more challenging than it is today. These experiences pushed her to discover creative ways to cook and uncover vegan-friendly spots within diverse cultural landscapes.

Through her work, Julia merges storytelling and advocacy, inspiring compassionate living. Passionate about animals, she is dedicated to raising awareness about fostering, adoption, and supporting non-profit animal rescues, encouraging others to recognize all animals as intelligent, loving beings deserving of respect and kindness.